Aconcagua
The Ayamara Indians, who live in the province of Mendoza in Argentina, named the mountain "Kon-Kawa" or the Snowy Mountain, but the Indians in Chile, the Araucanos, named it the "Aconca-Hue". When the Inca Empire reached the Andes, they created a name that used both names: "Ancocahuac". This word is made up of "anco" (white) and "cahuac" (sentinel).
Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Western hemisphere. The normal route is along the Northwest Ridge and is a walkup, the South Face is defended by bands of loose rock, ice cliffs, and huge avalanches.
Best Time to Climb
The best time of the year to climb the mountain is during the austral summer, from December until early March. It is logical that one can expect more snow and higher rivers early in the season, followed by increasingly drier conditions as the season progresses.
Because the Pacific Ocean is just 150 km to the west, the mountain receives all of its bad weather from the moist, humid winds that blow from the west off to the Pacific Ocean. A typical scenario is that these winds are driven upward by the western slope of the Andes, where the air cools, condenses, and forms the lenticular cloud that covers the summit. This phenomenon is also referred to as "Viento Blanc", meaning white wind. It is a sign of snow and high winds at altitude. It is essential to descend with the first sign of this type of weather.
The peak climbing month seems to be February, when the climbing conditions are reported to be the best. However, there is an increasing number of climbers who go during Christmas, because of the snow making and the climb is more aesthetic. Also, some parties plan their climbs, so they can join two South American celebrations after the Aconcagua. In February, one can celebrate the summit achievement by attending the Carnival festivities in Vina del Mar, Rio de Janeiro, Punta del Este, or Mar del Plata. In March, the city of Mendoza hosts the Argentine national wine festival. Hotel reservations during both events should be made long time in advance.
During the winter months, from May to August, most of the area is snow covered and is extremely windy. At times, the road to Mendoza can be impassable due to the major snowstorms and their effects on the road.
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| General |
The Normal Route, Northwest Face
The route was first explored by Paul Gussfeld in 1883 and the first ascent was made by Matthias Zurbriggen in 1897. It is also known as the "Northwest Route". This route starts in Puenta del Inca and it is by far the most popular route and poses few technical challenges, apart from the obvious ones of altitude and weather. Dogs have been taken to the summit and motorcycles have been riding as high as 6600m via this route. Although there are no permanent snowfields, each climber should be equipped with good, cold-weather, double Mountaineering Boots, Crampons, and an Ice Axe. Also, because most the mountain huts are in disrepair, one should carry a stormproof, four-season tent as well. The final section of the climb is a steep gully, the notorious Canaleta.
The Polish Glacier, East Face
The first ascent was made in 1934 by Narkietvitcz-Jodko, Stefan Daszyinski, Ostrowski adn Osiecki. This route ascends the Polish Glacier on the left side of it (via the northeast slope of the mountain). This is the second most popular route and its aesthetic nature makes it the preferred route for climbers with moderate experience. You will be definetly needing Ice Axes, Crampons, and full crevasse rescue equipment. From a camp at about 6000 m, the route is climbed in one day.
The French Route, South Face
This was the first route established on the South Face and climbed in 1954 by Dagory, Poulet, Denis, Pagarot, Lasueur, and Berardini. The summit attempt takes about 3 days. This is one of the most coveted big wall routes in the world and takes the central spur of the South Face. It involves rock climbing on far from perfect rock and steep snow and mixed climbing to reach the Southeast Ridge, close to the summit. |
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| Targeted Activities |
Camping, Hiking, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing |
| Season Availability: |
December to February
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| Altitude: |
6962- meters |
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Canada West Mountain School
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Vancouver / British Columbia / Canada
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Starting Price: $100.00
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Established in 1982, Canada West Mountain School is one of the premier Mountaineering, Climbing and Avalanche Safety centers in Canada. Owned and operated by IFMGA Mountain Guide Brian Jones, Canada W...
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Aconcagua Expeditions -- Guanacos Valley Route.
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Mendoza / Mendoza / Argentina
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Starting Price: $3750.00
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Natural High Alpine Adventures is an international mountaineering and trekking guide service. We are a small guiding company with a dedication to personal guest service. We organize and guide trips i...
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