Mount McKinley
The mountain, visible from the sea, was discovered as early as 1794. Denali - The High One - was the Native American word for North America's highest peak rising 20,320 feet (6,194m) in the mountain chain called the Alaska Range. In 1897, it was also given the name McKinley, named after William McKinley, a nominee for president, by the Princeton graduate and gold prospector, William Dickey.
Three major glaciers radiate from the McKinley: the Muldrow to the northeast, the Ruth to the southwest, and the Kahiltna to the southwest. It has two summits; the South Summit (6194m) and the North Summit (5934m).
Climate
The weather in Alaska is infamous for being dramatic and changing quickly. Stable months are April to June, while late July and August usually provide poor weather for climbers. It is cold during April, so the most popular months are May and June. But still, as a climber, one should be prepared for storms at any time of the year. Temperatures can plummet to -30 degrees Celsius and below with the wind-chill factor.
Flora and Fauna
At the higher peaks of the McKinley, flora and fauna are almost non-existent. Up until 2000m, ravens, finches and some lichen or mosses on rocks can be encountered. The birds are a nuisance if they find food remains. Above 2000m, it is a virtually sterile kingdom of snow, ice, and rock.
The surrounding arctic tundra consists of lowland vegetation dominated by forests, peat-bogs and montane moorlands, which in summer offers a feast for the eyes with luxurious bloom of flowers. Wildlife such as moose, reindeer, bear, and wolf abound, so as the very annoying mosquitoes.
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| General |
West Buttress or Normal Route
Cassin Ridge More than 80 percent of the climbers use the route for its low level of difficulty and ease of access. It starts from the South East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 2100m. From Camp 3 at 4330m, the crest of the West Buttress is reached via the crux 45 degrees headwall. From the top camp at 5200m, a rising traverse to Denali Pass and a long haul over Archdeacon's Tower leads to the summit.
West Rib
This beautiful route starts from the North East Fork. An ice couloir gains the crest of the rib which leads, in a superb position and without great difficulty, directly to the summit plateau.
Cassin Ridge
This is a major prize for Mountaineers. The usual approach is from the North East Fork, where the 60 degrees Japanese Couloir is climbed to the ridge crest, and to the summit.
South Face: Scott/Haston Route
This very serious route picks a way up the impressive 3000m South Face. The route traverses rightwards from the base of Cassin Ridge, across the lower half of the face, to a hanging glacier, which is followed trending leftwards towards the summit. |
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| Targeted Activities |
Camping, Hiking, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing |
| Season Availability: |
April to June
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| Altitude: |
6194- meters |
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