MOUNTAINEERING INFORMATION ARTICLES

Gangkhar Puensum - Tales on the Highest Unclimbed Mountain

Records in terms of the highest unclimbed mountain have always remained unclear, brought about by the inaccurate procedures in world surveying and mapping. What has always been a matter of argument is the fact that some mountains are prohibited from being climbed. But among the hundreds of mountains still left unclimbed, the Gangkhar Puensum claims the title for being the world’s highest unclimbed mountain in terms of elevation.

The Gangkhar Puensum is considered to be the highest mountain in Bhutan, with an elevation of 24,836 feet or 7,570 meters. The name literally means three mountain siblings, which has been mapped as both part of either Bhutan or Tibet. Attempts to reach Gangkhar Puensum’s summits were made as early as the 1980s, but such expeditions have been unsuccessful. Maps available were inaccurate and different heights were recorded, thus the first attempt to climb its peak failed as they could not locate the mountain itself. The mountain remained unclimbed after the government prohibited mountains higher than 6,000 feet to be climbed, due to their respect for a local spiritual belief that towering mountains are said to be the dwelling of spirits. The government is also concerned with rescue capabilities, as they have no available resources suitable for high-altitude rescues.

The only successful climb in Gangkhar Puensum was the Japanese expedition carried out in 1999, where the climb was made from Tibet due to their failed efforts to secure permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association. But such climb was only in Gangkhar Puensum’s subsidiary peak, the Liankang Kangri. Also called Gangkhar Puensum North, the subsidiary peak is only 7,535 meters high. This expedition had confirmed the height of the mountain, with the reports from the expedition accepted by the Japanese and Chinese clusters.

With the difficulty of securing permits from the government as well as lack of rescue support, it seems that the mountain will enjoy its reputation for being the highest unclimbed mountain for a lengthy amount of time.

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