MOUNTAINEERING INFORMATION ARTICLES

George Herbert Leigh Mallory: An Affair with Everest

George Herbert Leigh Mallory is one of the well respected and well-known English mountaineers in history. Born in Mobberley, Chesire on June 18, 1886, he was the second child of clergyman Herbert Leigh Mallory, in a family of four children. At a young age great things was already seen from him, winning a mathematics scholarship to Winchester College when he was 13 years old. It was in this institution that he was exposed to the world of mountaineering and rock climbing, through the influence of R. L. G. Irving.

After studying History in Magdalene College, Cambridge , he became a teacher at the Charterhouse School in Surrey, during the time when he had also met his wife, Ruth. The couple married in 1914 and had 3 children: Clare, Beridge and John. His love for climbing had brought many expeditions and ascents, from Europe to Asia. In 1904 he attempted to climb Mount Vélan, in a party led by Irving, but retreated before reaching the summit as Mallory experienced altitude sickness. After this failed climbing attempt he moved on to conquer other mountains, the Mont Blanc and Mont Maudit. After a few years he climbed Pillar Rock without any aid, also known as Mallory’s Route, which is considered the hardest route in Britain during his time.

As a mountain climbing enthusiast he soon geared up to conquer the Everest. In 1921 he took part in the British Reconnaissance Expedition, where accurate maps and route explorations were made. Together with Sherpas, members of Britain’s Alpine Club and surveyors, Mallory and his group explored the slopes of Everest and considered to be the first Westerners to explore the Rongbuk Glacier. Mallory was the first person to actually set foot on the mountain after climbing up the North Ridge.

A year after he returned to Everest, being part of the group of General Charles Granville Bruce and Edward Lisle Strutt. Reaching a record altitude of 26,985 feet, they retreated back due to the weather conditions and late hours. A second attempt was led by Mallory , but an avalanche swept over while they were on the lower slopes of the North Col, killing 7 Sherpas, cancelling the attempt to summit.

In 1924 he joined the Everest Expedition led again by General Charles Bruce. On June 8, 1924, together with Andrew Irvine, they attempted to summit by climbing through the North Col route. The two never returned to camp and have been presumed to have died in the mountain. The disappearance of the two, who may have died either on June 8 or 9, was deeply mourned by Britain, with Mallory’s funeral service widely attended at the St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Their disappearance have brought many attempts to find their remains on the mountain. But it was only in 1999, after 75 years, through the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition led by Eric Simonson, that the body of Mallory was found. His remains were discovered by Conrad Anker on the north face of the mountain at 26,760 feet. Although questions were raised as to whether the two had indeed reached the summit of the mountain, it was without question that he was a man of strength and heart.

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