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  OVERHAND ON A BIGHT OR STRAIGHT OVERHAND?
Sunday 20th April 2008 at 11:00:09 AM  

alexk
Alpinist
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I learned to equalize points other than bolts (which means cams, nuts, ice screws, etc.) by tying an overhand knot on a bight in the sling being used to establish a belay, with the bight being in the anticipated direction of pull. At times, though, the points are far enough apart that tying that overhand can be tough, sometimes impossible. A guy I know said one thing to do in those situations was to tie just a straight overhand knot in the sling (or rope or whatever you're using to set up your belay) and then clip the 'biner straight through the knot, and use that as your main anchor point. This does require less material than an o-hand on a bight, but how safe is it? Is there any possibility of the knot coming undone, or anything that can be done to deal with that eventuality? Anyone ever try this?

Thanks.

Alex
 
Thursday 24th April 2008 at 2:24:02 AM  

timd
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Personally I would use either a munter hitch or at the most a figure eight on a bight.
 
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