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  ARMCHAIR MOUNTAINEER GETTING UP TO CLIMB
Saturday 13th October 2007 at 12:58:27 AM  

davidhvoss
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I am getting into mountaineering. Here's how I'm going about it.. what do you think?
I've been reading "Moutaineering: The Freedom of the Hills" and I just took a Rock Gym 101 class (belaying and basic knots) and next is a Rock Gym 102 class (climbing technique and mental prep). Next year I will take a weekend intro to mountaineering course.
I live in the Midwestern US, so I really don't have any options to mountain climb right now, but we are moving out west within a year. Does this plan sound okay? Any other suggestions?
Oh, big question here: I have a list of items I need to buy to get started. Looks like I'll be dropping around $3,000 for boots, jackets, backpack, etc., etc.. etc.. etc.. My list is for all new equipment. Is there anything you would suggest that I could purchased used? I want to be safe, of course, but if there is anything climbers normally pick up used, let me know if you could. Thanks!
By the way, it's great to be a new member! I'm very excited about getting into this!

Monday 15th October 2007 at 4:53:21 AM  

alexk
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I have some advice for you that I’ll break down into three areas:

1) training

2) technical skills

3) equipment.


Mountaineering is an endurance sport, with short, intense bursts of effort required from time to time. Ideally, you will rarely find yourself so winded that you have to take a breather, but you’ll often be pretty close, and that is a tempo that you’ll have to maintain for a long time. A day can begin before dawn and end well after dark, with no real rests to speak of during the climb. Thus, train accordingly. Start doing things to improve your staying power, like going for long runs, really long runs, topping out at three hours. Buy a bike and cycle to save your knees. Swim, if that’s an option. Whatever your activity, try to do it at around 70% of your max. To be able to cope with the short bursts I mentioned earlier, do interval training. Work at 95-105% of your max for 60 seconds, then cut it back to 30-40% for 3-4 minutes. Do that 3-4 times for starters, then try to increase it. You can also work at around 90% of your max for 10-12 minutes, then cut it back down until you’re ready for another go, a few minutes later. Try that 3-4 times. That would be a session. Try to have a hard session followed by an easier one then a third tough one, followed by a day completely off, or two or three days, if you bit too much off during your three-day work period. Watch the overtraining.


Climbing also involves pulling with the arms and pushing with the legs, so work on that as well. You’ll need to have a lot of brute strength, to pull yourself over that overhang, for example, but at the same time, you’ll need to have endurance, to keep pulling all day long. Shoot for being able to do 15+ pull-ups (palms out) with just your body weight, and hitting a 1-3 rep max of double your body weight. Lat pull-downs, all kinds of rows, curls—all that will help. For your legs, the same thing goes: every once in a while, you’re going to need to PUSH your ass plus that big ruck up a couple of meters of steep rock, but more often than that, you’ll just need to keep putting one foot in front of and slightly higher than the other foot. Squats and lunges, for strength and endurance.


That covers training, pretty much. As you move along, you’ll pick up tips as well, so talk to people, not just climbers but anyone into endurance sports, and adapt as you go. Only you can tell what works best for you.

Technically speaking, your wall classes should be fine. You should be able to do what you’re told (put on your harness and clip in, for example) and, more specifically, to belay a lead climber (who will tell you in more concrete terms than I can here what to do), rope up, remove any pro the leader may have placed and clip in at the next belay point. The rest of the technical know-how—how to plan a route, how to place protection, how to establish a belay point for the next pitch—will be stuff you’ll see other people doing, or they will tell you how to do it. For now, get the basics down—that will make it possible for you to start learning the more complicated stuff.


With regards to the gear, buy only what you need for now. If you’re doing indoor wall climbing, get a no-frills harness (which you’ll replace later, when you know what to look for in a harness), some decent shoes (but not the most expensive) and maybe a chalk bag. There may be a few other small items you’ll need, but for the time being, if you can get away with not buying something, that will allow you to acquire the knowledge necessary to allow you to know that you really need. For the time being, if you can borrow stuff, do so. It’s a shame to spend $130 on an ice axe only to realize that you liked a slightly different design better. Same holds true for all gear. Try to have an idea of what you’re looking for, what you want to do with it and what works for you before you drop that 3K.


That’s all I can think of. Hope this was useful to you.


Alex
Monday 15th October 2007 at 10:08:21 AM  

davidhvoss
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Thanks for this info! I'm also glad to hear I can gain some tips from other climbers while on the mountains. My rock gym 102 class is in a few weeks so until then I'll work on endurance. Your tips are greatly appreciated.
My goals for 2008 are to make a summer and then winter ascent of Long's Peak in Colorado. From what I read, that should be a good goal to start. I'm still fine tuning that goal based on other's input, but as of now, that seems about right.

Thanks again,
David
 
Tuesday 16th October 2007 at 6:27:44 AM  

alexk
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One more thing, that I forgot to mention: you want to have as little body weight in relation to the power you can summon as possible. The lighter the better.
Your LP summer/winter plans sound good. Consider taking a guide in the winter, and maybe also in the summer that's the kind of climb that's a good trainer, if you have someone to train you.
Alex
 
Tuesday 16th October 2007 at 8:15:07 AM  

davidhvoss
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Thanks. I'm definitely working on that now. I'm taking your advice and working with my wife (a personal trainer) to plan a good "mountaineering" workout program.
 
Tuesday 30th October 2007 at 12:50:50 AM  

izzy
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davidhvoss posted the following on Tuesday 16th October 2007
. . .working with my wife (a personal trainer) . . .

lucky you! personal trainers can be really expensive nowadays specially if it's a conditioning program. but for stingy people like me, i just ride my bike for hours for cardio
 
Tuesday 6th November 2007 at 9:43:43 PM  

caveman
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cardio, man, lotsa cardio for your heart and lungs, for some people, that's all it takes, run for at least half an hour everyday around your neighborhood, go 3 blocks further for every new day and go to the steep spots and just push yourself. not too hard thought. and be mindful of your posture.
 
Tuesday 6th November 2007 at 9:48:41 PM  

deebo
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man, i can't wait for david's wife's reply to this. don't take this the wrong way, i just wanna hear what a pro has to say.

Just because you like Jimi Hendrix does not mean you play like Jimi Hendrix
Wednesday 7th November 2007 at 12:19:25 AM  

davidhvoss
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 I'll have her read it and give her thoughts.

 
Friday 7th December 2007 at 7:22:45 AM  

alexk
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I gotta agree with Caveman, except that I would recommend going further than that-;try to get in some really, really long runs.
 
Monday 24th March 2008 at 9:08:51 PM  

davidhvoss
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My wife has given me support for the following routine, which I'm now doing (she likes the step-climb approach to start - to get my legs in shape):
 
Run 1/2 mile to park
At park step-climb (step up a 2 foot ledge) 20x using right foot, 20x using left foot, 20x using both feet at same time
Fast walk for 1 minute to get breathing back to manageable
Repeat step-climbs every 5 minutes for 30 minutes
Run 1/2 mile home
 
Once I can crush that - I'll move on to longer runs, etc.. There is some great advice above which I will incorporate more and more.  Maybe I'll increase the runs to the park over time.. 1 mile.. 1.5 miles.. 2 miles.. etc.. 
 
I've also taken some advice from above, to start, working on upper body strength (pulling) when I hit the gym.  I'm trying to get to the gym 3x a week and do my runs daily.
 
FYI- I RECENTLY FOUND OUT we are moving to Durham, North Carolina (I'm being assigned there as a pastor of a church). I'm trying to locate "mountaineers" in the North Carolina region. I think there is plenty to do there for a novice like me. If you are from there or know someone who is, please introduce yourself. Thanks!
 
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