alexk
Alpinist
Posts 28
Points 28
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Does anyone have any experience with things like the Yates Screamer? How many would you use on a pitch? How well do they "hold up"?
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timd
Alpinist
Posts 28
Points 28
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I have many Yates Screamers. I usually use regular drws on the first two screws after that screamers all the way. As far as how they hold up, I have never taken a fall on any of them so I have used the same ones for two years now. Inspect your screamers before and after every climb. If you doubt whether it is still good then replace it.
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alexk
Alpinist
Posts 28
Points 28
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What kind of 'biners do you use them with? I read somewhere that as they "rip," they shake or vibrate, and that that can lead to the gates opening, and thus to failure. Then I heard somewhere else that wire-gates are less susceptible to that kind of thing. Then I heard somewhere else that the only sure-fire thing was to use lockers. On both ends. For each Screamer. That's a lot of lockers. Lotta weight too. What are your thoughts about all that, Timd?
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timd
Alpinist
Posts 28
Points 28
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You heard correctly about the wire gates, they are less susceptible to gate opening than regular biners. I do not use lockers on mine because that uses up time and energy needed for the lead. As you stated that is also a lot of weight. I use a regular biner for the screw end and a wire for the rope end. The only lockers I use are for the top anchor set up. i figure that I have enough going on during a lead with hanging to a tool with one hand, getting a screw and placing it with the other, and then clipping a draw and then the rope. I sure as hell am not going to twist a locker shut. Fact is, I do not know of anyone who places ice protection with lockers, Whether they are using screamers, draws or peckers. That is only my opinion, I want you to do what is safest for you and your party. It is you that has to be comfortable while on lead. I hope that helps.Climb on man.
Tim
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