MOUNTAINEERING INFORMATION ARTICLES

McKinley - Climbing Routes

Since the eighties, Climbing the McKinley has increased in popularity. It now attracts more than 1000 Climbers a year. All expeditions must register in advance with the Denali National Park Sevice and Climber's experience is scrutinized with regards to their chosen Climb. Only six guiding companies are permitted to operate on McKinley. They offer Climbs up the West Buttress, the West Rib, and Muldrow Glacier Routes.

West Buttress or Normal Route
More than 80 percent of the Climbers use the route for its low level of difficulty and ease of access. It starts from the South East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 2100m. From Camp 3 at 4330m, the crest of the West Buttress is reached via the crux 45 degrees headwall. From the top camp at 5200m, a rising traverse to Denali Pass and a long haul over Archdeacon's Tower leads to the summit.

West Rib
This beautiful route starts from the North East Fork. An ice couloir gains the crest of the rib which leads, in a superb position and without great difficulty, directly to the summit plateau.

Cassin Ridge
This is a major prize for Mountaineers. The usual approach is from the North East Fork, where the 60 degrees Japanese Couloir is Climbed to the ridge crest, and to the summit.

South Face: Scott/Haston Route
This very serious route picks a way up the impressive 3000m South Face. The route traverses rightwards from the base of Cassin Ridge, across the lower half of the face, to a hanging glacier, which is followed trending leftwards towards the summit.

While it can spark your interest to Climb McKinley by being familiar with its different Climbing Routes, it is still much better to experience scaling it firsthand. So why not book a trip to Alaska at our Mountaineering Travel Site now? In there you will find a list of our Travel Partners who can provide you with accomodations and tours to Mount McKinley. What are you waiting for? Book a trip now!

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