Ice Axe Buying Guide - How to Buy Ice Axes

• Axes Length
  Over the years, Axes have gone shorter on average. Most Axes have now settled at a length of 50cm or 55cm. The difference between Walking Axes and Climbing Axes is not the length anymore but more on the shape of the head section, notably the Pick. Long Axes, those which are longer than 60 cm, are quite difficult to carry, and they lack precision and balance when swung. Short Axes perform all these tasks with ease.


• Axes Loops and Leashes
  Although it can be a hindrance in some situations, always choose Axes with a Leash. Axes loop or Leash comes in very handy . A Leash stops you from losing your Axes in case you should drop them. On Climbing Axes, a Leash is essential to help take some of the weight off your hands.
  
  As said earlier, a Leash can sometimes be a hindrance. When zigzagging up a slope, for instance, it is necessary to change which hand the Axes are in every time you change direction, which also means taking the Leash off one hand and putting it on the other. In this case, if you decide not to use your Leash, then make sure that it does not dangle by your feet. Because if it happens, the Leash could catch on your Crampons and trip you over.

• Ratings and standards
  Another factor you should look for are the ratings and standards of the Ice Axes. There are two types of CE mark (European standards) for Ice Axes:
  
  
  • B-rated ('Basic') Axes are intended for hill walking, and have Shafts strong enough that you can use them as belay. Other tests check the strength of the Pick and security of the head.
  • T-rated ('Technical') tools are intended for climbing and Mountaineering. They are at least 30 - 40% stronger than B-rated Axes, to allow for more extreme use and abuse (such as torquing the Picks into cracks).
  
  
• Feel of the Axes
  When purchasing Axes, it is important to know how it feels in your hand. The Axes should be picked up with the Adze facing forwards and the Pick pointing backwards. Axes with welded Adzes can sometimes feel uncomfortable on your bare hands, so remember to take a pair of winter gloves to the shop.