MOUNTAINEERING INFORMATION ARTICLES

Aconcagua - Approach and Climbing Routes

Approach Routes

The starting point of the Aconcagua climbs is Mendoza in Argentina. This is a large city with frequent daily air service from and to Santiago, Cordoba, Buenos Aires, and other major cities in South America. Alternatively, some parties save money by flying to Santiago and take one of the express buses or taxis that run between Santiago and Mendoza and takes a whole day. However, this route has some disadvantages. In the winter, sometimes the road is closed due to avalanches and rock slides and the border crossings are time-consuming as well.

From Mendoza, highway 7 leads south out of the city turning west, climbing into the Andes. It is a major pave highway with lots of traffic. The easiest and quickest option is to hire a taxi or a small bus. This is a bit more expensive, but it is easier to keep track of gear and equipment and one can easily arrange stops. However, most climbers take the twice-daily Expresso Uspallata bus that runs between Mendoza and the Las Cuevas bus station, the last stop before the Chilean border. This bus leaves at 6 and 10 a.m. and takes about 4 hours to arrive at Puenta del Inca. Purchase your tickets one day ahead.

If you have arrived in Puenta del Inca, you need to hire mules to haul your expedition gear from the trailhead to the base camp. Although one can also do without mules (it is expensive!), it may help in dealing with heavy loads, long distances, and difficult river-crossings. One needs one pack mule, that can normally carry 60 kg, and one muleteer on horseback for a two-person party if you go via the Horcones Valley. The mule will take one day to carry your food and equipment to Plaza del Mulas while climbers take one extra day. If you would like to approach the mountain via the Vacas Valley, then one extra muleteer and horseback is needed for the severe river-crossings.

One can locate these mules in a number of different ways. If you climb via a pre-arranged expedition, then your outfitter has already made arrangements for mules. If you travel by yourself, you can either hire established, licensed packers or independent, unlicensed muleteers. A list of names of the licensed packers can be retrieved from the Aconcagua Provincial office in Mendoza. The less expensive option, unlicensed muleteers can be found near Puente Del Inca or Punta de Vacas. Be sure that everything you agree with your muleteer is on paper. Pay the first half of you money upfront and the rest at the end of the trip. For safety, either travel with your mules or arrange timely meetings at the river crossings.

Climbing Routes

The Normal Route, Northwest Face
The route was first explored by Paul Gussfeld in 1883 and the first ascent was made by Matthias Zurbriggen in 1897. It is also known as the "Northwest Route". This route starts in Puenta del Inca and it is by far the most popular route and poses few technical challenges, apart from the obvious ones of altitude and weather. Dogs have been taken to the summit and motorcycles have been riding as high as 6600m via this route. Although there are no permanent snowfields, each climber should be equipped with good, cold-weather, double Mountaineering Boots, Crampons, and an Ice Axe. Also, because most the mountain huts are in disrepair, one should carry a stormproof, four-season tent as well. The final section of the climb is a steep gully, the notorious Canaleta.

The Polish Glacier, East Face
The first ascent was made in 1934 by Narkietvitcz-Jodko, Stefan Daszyinski, Ostrowski adn Osiecki. This route ascends the Polish Glacier on the left side of it (via the northeast slope of the mountain). This is the second most popular route and its aesthetic nature makes it the preferred route for climbers with moderate experience. You will be definetly needing Ice Axes, Crampons, and full crevasse rescue equipment. From a camp at about 6000 m, the route is climbed in one day.

The French Route, South Face
This was the first route established on the South Face and climbed in 1954 by Dagory, Poulet, Denis, Pagarot, Lasueur, and Berardini. The summit attempt takes about 3 days. This is one of the most coveted big wall routes in the world and takes the central spur of the South Face. It involves rock climbing on far from perfect rock and steep snow and mixed climbing to reach the Southeast Ridge, close to the summit.

Which route to choose depends entirely on yourself or your team. Whatever route you take, you are sure to face a different set of challenges that will test your determination to reach the summit. Just always remember to bring with you the proper equipment so that you will be prepared for whatever challenge is put before you. When you reach the summit, it's one mountain down for your Seven Summits list. On to the next mountain!

advertising info